Friday, December 11, 2009

Gown Friday: TRENDSPOTTING 2010

Hello everyone, remember me? Amy-Jo Tatum, from Bride Chic coming over to one of my favorite blogs to share a few fashion insights I've gleaned over the past season. First of all it's been awhile--too long so we have a lot of catching up to do. BTW, great to be back!

My personal favorite from The Lezu Atelier Collection

Trendspotting for me happens more as a process of osmosis. I sit from a constant lookout point observing new fabrics and textiles and how designers use them to create silhouettes, combine color and apply techniques. Clients have been my best source of inspiration for really plugging into the wave of fashion. Sparked by many things, trends are indeed like waves. For instance, popular cinema can springboard a certain look forward. Think: Titanic, Chicago and a long ways back to Out of Africa. Didn't those flicks lend a certain look that flowed through fashion for a while? Trends can be off-shoots of events in the news like the wedding gown recently worn by Ivanka Trump. Her refined Grace Kellyesque custom creation by Vera Wang has spun off a whole new reinvention of the traditional gown and its components with a higher neckline and addition of sleeves. Despite all the noise of outside influences, my clients do come up with their own original ideas and touches to add to a gown. Sometimes wearing a particular accessory has sentimental significance whether it's a vintage piece, gift or personal statement, they are helping set a trend and set fashion history by wearing those touches on the most important day of their lives.

The question everyone's curious about lately is, are trends for 2010 influenced by the state of the economy? My take on this is yes, we're pairing down to cleaner lines and accessorizing more with fun touches like multicolored under slips, long gloves, fascinators and hats. I decided to check in with Patricia Nevil, head designer for Lezu Antelier and Lezu who had this to say:
For 2010, the “Princess” look in wedding dresses is on the way out. What’s 'in' is a more practical form fitting gown that shows more of the bride's figure. Brides want to look slimmer no matter what. The “new look” is simpler, has less fabric and less embroidery. Brides are spending less on their dresses and are putting a bigger portion of their budget on wedding shoes and accessories, as they tend to wear those again. More and more brides are asking for colored bridal shoes, red being the most popular color.

That said, let's take a look at a few of these trends:


{Priscilla's Parasols}

Not those paper throwaways but the real deal. Silk. Cotton. Linen. Fabric parasols will absorb and protect you from direct sunlight; and what a fantastic prop to have on your wedding day. You can go with a real one-of-a-kind vintage keepsake or have your own custom designed for you and your bridesmaids. Parasols are hardly a new invention. They go further back than Marie Antoinette's time. With of the heightened awareness to direct sunlight issues, the trend was recently revived in the hotter climates like South Africa and Australia as they are fast becoming chic to carry down the aisle.


Defined, the tattered or shabby chic look can be ripped, torn up, frayed at the edges and have strips of skirt raveling. You'd swear some of these gowns we're seeing in the collections were inspired by Cinderella''s midnight run. Like the above dress by Carole Hannah (of Project Runway fame) the tattering is actually well thought out and precise in it's application.


{Natasha Jane}

This headpiece was created out of bits of Venise lace and fabric. Notice how the raw edges add the edge.


{Nadya lev}

This recreation is as near to Cecil Beaton's masterpiece for Audrey Hepburn as it gets. Beaton is the omni-genius who not only designed costumes for films of the My Fair Lady magnitude but sets as well. 'Ascot Gavotte' in My Fair Lady was a parade of black and white pre-WWI styles in living color.
Though this season we're treated to smaller doses and easier applications of this look--it's still pretty bold. Touches of black on gowns include bows, handrolled florals, peek-a-boo linings in stripes and polka dots, belts and of course Vera Wang's signature black sashes like the one in the image below.

{Vera Wang}



The first time I made a half dozen of these fascinating headpieces, my sister took one look at the huge white tulles all rolled up and said, "Forget it, Amy, no way will anybody wear a crumpled up ball of tulle on their head." Three years later everyone wants one of these poufs to go with their gown. They are pretty original and enhance most styles. Smaller, neater versions did roll out of Paris circa WWII and a bit beyond but only enjoyed a short life span. Typically they were made of organza and sometimes balls of marabou resembling a powder puff. Lately bridal designers have turned to the uber-pouf as a variation off fascinators and birdcages.


{Tara Keely}

Another comeback trend is illusion. Illusion bodices and sleeves whether embroidered or beaded lend beauty and craftsmanship to a gown. Traditional bridal gowns have been noted for illusion and/or lace over bodices like the pattern below from the 1950s. You can spot updated versions right off. The bling is usually in the form of genuine Swarovski crystals combined with lace and embroidery.

{So Vintage}



Read: not vintage but costume-inspired. These gowns and accessories lend a spirit of the truly unique and off the norm of mainstream bridal. If there is a particular look you love like 20s flapper chic, find that one accessory that really says it. The above gown from Pronovias is evocative of the Napoleonic-Regency period with it's detailing of lace around the neckline. The black ribbon sash around the upper midriff fastforwards the look into the 21st century. Below is a gem of a jeweled cap veil looking like it was created circa WWI for Hapsburg royals.



The portrait collar. This look goes all the way back to Dicken's time and has been the subject of reinventions ever since. Dior brought it back in 1948, prompting the shawl look we remember was a hot 50's trend. Back in the late 1980s-early 90s, huge and wide portrait collars were everywhere in bridal wear. Fast forward 2010 and they are back with a few changes like delicate and narrow bands as well as surpliced treatments like the one above by Novia d'Art. Portrait collars generally sit right off the shoulders like a cape or shawl that is attached to the bodice. .


{click to enlarge}

Yes, the cage is still trendy and works with just about any style gown but let's take a look at another veil making a comeback on the bridal scene. We're seeing more of the drop veil lately, only this time around with touches of bling underneath it all. Defined, a drop veil is exactly what it sounds like: dropped onto the head in a single layer of tulle or lace. Typically the more elaborate gown looks best with a simple veil, like one layer of tulle, whereas all over lace veils or ones edged with wide borders require a simple gown with little adornment. Your dress might have some exquisite back details you want to show off. If this is the case select a try a layer of tulle like that shown in the images here— in a dropped style that doesn’t fall in creases and folds across your back. Tulle is the best fabric for this; it’s transparent enough without being so opaque to fog detail.

--Amy-Jo Tatum, Bride Chic


Couture Carrie said...

Gorgeous post, darling D!
Love the parasols!


junebride said...

I am looking for a very, very sheer drop veil (was inspired by the Monique Lhuillier runway ads I saw) and am wondering if silk tulle or bridal illusion is sheerer. Also, any suggestions as to where to find one?

Bride Chic said...

Silk tulle tends to drape and standard bridal illusion has some spring to it similar to organza. Both work but silk gauze will cost anywhere from 25-50 per yard whereas nylon tulle is more affordable. Here are a couple sources for veils.

Hope that helps!


Bride Chic said...

One more thing JuneBride!

Silk tulle and bridal illusion are both about the same sheerness . . .

Polly said...

I came across your blog while doing research for my blog. I love the updated Audrey at Ascot dress. The. dresses are all great...wish I could get married to my husband all over again so that I could wear one of these dresses.

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